Day 40: Santiago

The CNN (Camino News Network) has been buzzing with the possibility of a sacred dance to celebrate the accomplishment of completing the Camino! My Aussie friends Peter and Cate have embraced this possibility and have been issuing invitations to one and all.

It happens to be my birthday and the idea of a movement meditation as an offering of thanks and deep gratitude to this journey, inner and outer, is amazing! And to have fellow pelegrinos join me is sublime!

This morning I didn't have a space. I decided to stay in the parador here as a treat. At 11, Peter asked if there were any rooms with a sound system available... There was - a room with stars carved in the ceiling, old marble floors and a chapel around the corner! Stunning!

We attended the pilgrims' mass in the Cathedral with a thousand others! There were many soldiers there who had just completed the Northern Route. Luckily , it was a day when the huge incense burner was swung. What a high!

And then, the dance.... Somehow the CNN spread the word and forty pelegrinos came from Ireland, New Zealand, Czech, Germany, US, Canada, Australia, France - even Father Michel, 81 years young came for a bit! The love in the room was so palpable! What a fortunate woman I am!

And more ... Reconnecting with Trish and Kay with whom I started this journey forty days ago.

Dinner was at a wonderful restaurant - fish soup, paella, delicately roasted green peppers! There were 30 Irish lads there from a boys school - what fun we had.

Words cannot capture the beauty of this day! It is a birthday that will hold a very special place on my heart!

Sending Camino love!

Day 39: Santiago

I made it! Beautiful town - tons of deep feelings! More later. See my compostela below! What a way to celebrate a birthday!

Sending Camino blessings

Day 38: Arzua

Now I'm 38k from Santiago! What an awesome feeling it is to have walked over 750k so far. Hard to believe that tomorrow will have a different rhythm, a different feeling of an accomplishment, an ending of an extraordinary journey, inner and outer. For now,just one step at a time, one moment at a time.

I haven't been blogging lately largely because wifi was not readily available but also because the days have been so full! So many precious moments! The group of about 50 children, 8 or 9, with paper Camino shells around their necks, carrying light backpacks, walking up a steep hill, all yelling 'buen Camino' to us; the man from California who is walking in memory of his heart donor,

How can your heart not open over and over again!

Next post will be from Santiago!

Sending Camino blessings

Day 37: Portomarin

Today it felt like I had wings under my feet, moving quickly through forested paths, skimming the earth. There are many more people on the path, those starting in Sarria to make the 100k requirement to get their compostela.

Met an Australian woman who moved permanently to a small village here. She provides fruit and goodies for the pelegrinos passing by her stand. Would have loved to have taken the time to chat, find out more about her life in Spain.

We're in Galicia,, known for cows sharing the path with the pelegrinos - important to look underfoot!

So close now to Santiago! Sending Camino blessings!

Day 36: Bardelo

Must admit my energy is low today... First real dip.... Must have been those climbs up to O'Cebreiro. Didn't go far today - 15k to a Casa Rural tucked away in a wee village. The house has been in the same family of farmers for over six centuries! The quiet is so profound....

There are six lively pelegrinos from Gibraltar. Did you know there's a strong academic connection between the University of Toronto and Gibraltar in the archeiogical field ?

Shared a lively dinner with two Floridians of Cuban background tonight.

Sending Camino blessings

Day 35: Samos

Today's walk took us through gently rolling forested hill pathways, with babbling brooks bathed in warm sunshine!

As we arrived in Samos the magnificent structure of the second oldest monastery in the western world came into view! Another beautifully maintained town with the monastery as its centre piece!

The monastery cloister features an unusually buxom statue of sirens of the sea, symbolic of the earth's fecundity the guide explained. The Iglesia holds relics of saints and patrons; it's library displays beautifully illustrated early books on the Camino. There was a piigrim's mass that featured a unique organ with over 40 sound tones! I was so hungry that that I chose a more corporeal form of nourishment.

At dinner we chatted with three young pilgrims, on a writing course with their prof. What a great life expandin opportunity at age 20 !

Sending Camino blessings

Day 34: Alto do Polo

Reached O'Cebreiro today, a glorious sunny day! It's s pretty little village perched high along the way, gussied up for the pelegrinos and the tourists. The 9th century Iglesia is precious, simple in its adornments and beautifully designed.

We walked further on continually inspired by amazing vistas and blue skies, passing a compelling statue of an old pilgrim, a reminder that many have walked this magical path before us without state of the art gear to keep them dry and warm!

Can't tell you how much magic and mystery there is on this path! Perhaps one day you'll have a chance to experience it yourself!

Sending Camino blessings

Day 33: Herrerias

Another amazing day! We decided, Aussie Cate, Peter and I the we were going to approach O'Cebreiro, one of the highest points on the Camino by taking the path less trodden, away fro the business of the road! Although challenging, it was exhilarating and rewarding. There were no cafes or stores along the way, only water fountains. We brought a picnic lunch that we shared in a glorious meadow! The sky was azure blue and the new spring growth beautiful! A highlight was finding an abandoned church where we were able to ring the church bells pulling on a cord left it seems just for us.

It was an exhausting day but simply sublime!

Sending Camino blessings!

Day 32: Villafranca del Bierza

What an absolute delight it was to 'bump into' Sue Kenney and the wonderful women travelling with her. Such synchronicity!

I was walking along when I heard my name called - what a surprise to see Linda from Toronto greeting me.

It's their first day on the Camino and their excitement was infectious. Sue and one other woman are walking the Camino barefoot - what a challenge that would be for me. I know their Camino will be very special.

I continued walking through beautiful Bierzo vineyards into a precious village, Villafranca.

Tomorrow O'Cebreiro, the steepest section of the Camino.

Sending Camino blessings!

Day 31: Ponferrada

Slow day today, landing on Ponferrada, relieved to have sunny warm weather after walking through snow squalls yesterday. There's a magnificent 12th century Templar castle which unfortunately was not open to explore.

The landscape continues to awesome, mountains wherever you look.

Sending Camino blessings'

Day 30: Riego de Ambros

Snow! Blowing, blustery snow squalls!! In spite of the weather off we went! What a different walking experience! Saw another deer bounding off beside the trail, the only distraction to the howling winds.

Stopped at a wonderful alburgue in Foncebadon - would have loved to stay by the fire and take advantage of the Kundalini yoga and reiki treatments however we had only walked 6K.

La Cruce de Ferro where pilgrims leave stones and momentos was barely visible! Nonetheless, it was a moving experience

Stopped regularly where we could get tea and warm our hands and were thrilled to finally walk down to Acebo as the clouds parted to show the breathtaking mountainous vistas!! Met an albergue owner in a bar that provides vegetarian meals just before O'Cebreiro!

So glad to have landed on a warm place tonight!

Sending Camino blessings

Day 29: Rabinal!!

Did you know it's Norway's national day today and how lucky was I to hear a Norwegian couple soulfully and playfully sing their national anthem!

It's turned cold and rainy today! There was even a hint of snow in the air. The warmhearted Rocky from Hamburg was a delight to talk to, as we listened to his yearning for a life fully lived.

How could we pass by the Bar Cowboy Meson, where the 75 year old Caroline was drinking beer, talking about this her 8th Camino !

Rabinal is indescribably beautiful! Would have loved to explore but it's sooo cold and rainy! The Gregorian chants at vespers in an old Templar church touched deeply.

We climb into the mountains again tomorrow and word is that there's lots of snow there...

Sending Camino blessings

Day 28: Astorga

But before Astorga, just before setting out, I sit before a gentle fire listening to soulful classical music in this magical Casa Rural built over a roaring stream, drinking in its beauty, feeling the immense gratitude for my life!

But, the Camino called, and off I went, leaving this little piece of heaven behind. The landscape changed, back to rolling hills, and varied vegetation. I was so grateful to have completed the Meseta. The Meseta that takes you deeply into your own psyche and soul! More gratitude arises to Liam, who started the red poppy encouragements and to Peter whose constant inspiration got me through!

Around the corner and up the hill, about 100 metres away stood an organic juice stand. The handsome David left Barcelona to where the Milky Way shines the brightest along the path. A film crew from Chicago was asking pelegrinos for the
reason they are walking.

Reconnected with Aussie Cate with whom I walked into Astorga. What a beautiful town, the highlight of which is a bishop's palace designed by Gaudi, and most importantly, Astorga is known for its chocolate.

I really wanted to stay and explore, but Granon called.

Sending Camino blessings

Day 27: Villavante

'The Camino provides' is a what is said along the way, and yes, how it has for me! I'm so grateful for the many angels and synchronisities!

I left Leon at 2, a late start, aiming for Vilar de Mazarife, even phoned ahead to the albergue to make sure I had a place since I was arriving late. Best laid plans fell flat - they did't honour my reservation; there was no room anywhere and so off I went, walking another 10K to Villavante!

The Casa Rural here is in a renoed mill, set back from the road on a grove of trees. As I walked in, Mercedes welcomed me warmly with hugs and kisses. There was a roaring fire in the fireplace and dinner was in half an hour. The company of pilgrims was fun - England, South Africa, France, US and Canada represented at the table, sharing stories and experiences.

What luck that there was no room in Vilar - and I coulda saved myself a kilometre or two of muttering!

Sending Camino blessings!