Day 8: Los Arcos

We left Estella expecting rain and snow but it turned out to be a glorious sunny day! Within an hour of leaving, we came upon the free flowing wine fountain and of course I filled my collapsible plastic MEC cup, with a sip I left the rest to the earth.

We passed the French family of four kids, two, a boy and a girl about 10 on bicycles, and the smaller ones in a little covered cart attached to a bicycle pulled by the father. They not only keep up with us but often we find them ahead of us. Amazing!

We pick nicked by a vineyard and an olive garden. Walking into Los Arcos, there was hail! We're in a wonderful private albergue - Casa de la Abuela that has private and semi private rooms!

We're about to explore this wee village! Sending Camino blessings!

Day 7: Estella

Rainy today. Relief from yesterday's heat (23c). Glad I have my turquoise poncho! Such a fashionista on the Camino...

Madre Mia... there were up and downs today. More ups than downs it seems. I was a wee bit disheartened - the rain, the dampness, the relentless climb. My walking companions are great. It makes all the difference in the world to have someone 'to grin at' as Kay likes to say when the going gets tough.

Luckily my feet are OK. I was a bit worried yesterday because they sweated a lot and I wondered at my choice of wool liners and socks. Gotta remember to stop to air out and rest them.

We're in Estella, in a hotel, about 3k from the magical old part of the city. We'll most likely just eat here and go to bed. Too tired to go back...

So much to tell you, but I'll you leave upu with the image of wild poppies along the roadside. Can't tell how they delight me!

Sending Camino blessings!

Day 6: Punta del Reina

Another glorious sunny day on the Camino! Trish, Liam and I left Kay on Pamplona to tend to her black toe - we really missed her company and that melodic 'yeaaah'. All's well I hear and she'll be on her way tomorrow!

We walked 29k today through vibrantly yellow fields of canola, blue skies and quiet villages. The climb up to Alto de Perdon seemed never ending - I'm certainly getting a good cardio workout!

At the very top, flanked be wind mills stands a compelling monument of ancient pilgrims - see below. Onwards to the beautiful old church of Santa Maria de Eunate that had connections with the Knights Templar. It was deeply moving
- the tears just flowed.

Now at the Jukue after a filling meal with the first real veggies I've seen in days! Tomorrow Estella and possibly rain... Blessings from a sunny,very warm day .

Day 5: Pamplona

The historic part of Pamplona is beautiful. The city best known for the running of the bulls and for the place where Hemingway wrote ' The sun also rises' is a great place to take a rest from the Camino. We just wandered around stopping for cafe con leche and for te verde con arancia now and then.

The evening brought everyone out into the plaza, watching, being watched, sitting in cafes. My wish for Toronto is to develop more of this cafe culture, It felt so vibrant!

In the plaza des Toros, where bull fights are held, Kay and I happened upon an exhibition of flamenco dancers - it was phenomenal to watch them move! Ole!

And then a walk home along the remparts as the setting sun set the western sky ablaze and as the full moon rose. The cathedrale in Its ancient magnificance with two giant black sculptures of heads in front, across from a modern multi coloured apt, building and a artist's studio where old masters were reimagi ed with sponge Bob figures et al -

we head towards Punta la Reina - Liam and Trish and I. Kay is staying on to take care of a black toe ... The weather promises to hold until Friday when rain is expected.

I feel so blessed!

Day 4: Arre just before Pamplona

Sitting in a garden at the albergue attached to a church built in the 10th century relaxing after a 22k walk from Zubiri. ' To walk fast, walk alone - to walk farther, walk together.'( South African saying ) that really had meaning today, Our foursome is wonderfully supportive, interesting and good natured. We're calling ourselves the Camino ACES - for Australia, Canada, England and Scotland.

We were glad to leave Zubiri, a small industrial town to walk through forested paths through picture perfect villages. The spring flowers have blanketed the countryside, a welcome sight after our Canadian winter. We stopped for lunch at an outdoor cafe beside a babbling brook
taking in all its beauty.

The ACES are going to Pamplona tomorrow and will most likely go our own way after that - time constraints and specific goals

I'll miss my new friends and it will be an opportunity to be a bit more cpntemplative.

Sending blessings from sunny warm Spain

Day 3: Zubiri

I'm in Zubiri, a quiet little town, 22k fron Roncesvalles ( valley of thorns). It's a bit cool and overcast so I'm resting in a pension with Kay and Liam. We had lunch in a pretty town square outdoors with pilgrim friends coming and going. How quickly we become a community.

Roncesvalles was very special! There was a lovely blessing for pilgrims in the Iglesia de Santa Maria where the countries of pilgrims there were read out. There are quite a few Canadians on the Camino. The albergue there is run very efficiently by Dutch hospitaleros, who have some
people skills to learn in my opinion. When efficiency trumps warmth, a tired pilgrim feels the lack of heart...

The walk today was long, through beautiful forested areas. In Burguete, we walked past the hotel where Hemingway wrote and played the piano. We would look back at the Pyrenees in awe at yesterday's walk through the mountains.

Tomorrow we head towards Pamplona. I'll decide whether to go into town or just stay on the countryside that's feeding my soul so much. One step at a time!

Sending blessings and tsiomky

Over the Pyrenees - the 30 step program

I'm exhilarated and exhausted resting in the Roncesvalles albergue. I've crossed the Pyrenees in two days - what a beautiful and challenging walk it was. It was sunny and the perfect temperature. Friday, I walked with Trish from the UK and Kay from Australia and Liam, a Scot who lives Down under. Good company setting a good pace until it got more challenging at which point I began the 30 step program - take thirty steps; catch your breath admiring the breath-taking scenery; start again .

Today, I was soon left in the dust of the group leaving Orisson and practiced the 30 steps program for a very long time -a real opportunity to practice slow walking and to be perfectly OK at my own pace. I'm left with many impressions but ultimately awe at the beauty of these mountains.

Tomorrow will be a less demanding day and I'm planning a shorter walk. Blessings!