Day 16; San Juan de Ortega

Some days are just easier than others and today was a good one! It turned out to be a glorious sunny warm one which it made it easier to walk the 24K to San Juan de Ortega.

I was concerned since the map showed some serious hills but they turned out not to be as challenging as expected, thankfully.

The path took me through a forested area with incredible vistas of the snow capped Sierras. Somewhere along the way I reached the highest point of the Camino but I was unaware of doing so. The highlight was seeing a white tailed deer scurrying back into the forest.

San Juan de Ortega is a tiny village that caters to the pelegrinos. It consists of a scattering of houses around a gorgeous plaza, the feature of which is the beautifully restored church. Once again , there was a blessing of the pilgrims - so touching and supportive no matter what your beliefs are.

Tomorrow I hope to get to Burgos, where I'll spend two nights.

Sending Camino blessings

Day 15: Belorado

The excitement today was seeing storks at the beginning of the day sitting on their palatial nests and then the end of the day in the bell tower of a church here in Belorado. What magnificence! I was always told that if a stork builds a best on your home, you are blessed, so I extended that to blessings on seeing them!

I walked through Granon today and really felt a very special energy there! The albergue there is connected to a lovely church.... I would have stayed but wanted to walk a bit more! Someone said it was featured in the movie The Way. Also passed an albergue in Villorea de la Rioja that is supported by Paulo Coelho.

It was a bit of an up and down day for me today, one moment questioning why I'm doing this, the next moment forgetting the question because of some breath-taking vista.... Ah, the inner journey.,,

No pix today 'cause the wifi is not letting me do so - I'll try to add them tomorrow!

There are mountains on the way tomorrow so poppies and pretty pink heather will be called upon..,

Sending Camino blessings!

Day 14: Santo Domingo da la Calzada - 2

It was a rest day for me today, nursing a cold, reading, napping. I had a chance to pause and reflect on the past two weeks, my travels inner and outer. I was particularly moved by my walk to the Cistercian Abbey in Canas, a suggested alternative route from the main Camino path.

The Abbey was stunning but the profound stillness of the land is still very much with me along with the very slow-changing stunning vistas with each step!

This morning I was awakened at 5am by what sounded like water pipes banging
Turned out to be the drummer who marks Santo Domingo's efforts to keep pilgrims safe on the Camino path by drumming. But at 5am!!! He was back tonight at 7pm.
See pix below.

And, there is a chicken and rooster in the cathedral (or chooks as my Aussie friends would say). Couldn't find them last night but was helped by the rooster crowing this afternoon. See pix below.

The story is that Santo Domingo brought a man hanged under false charges back to life. When the judge heard, he said in disbelief, it's as likely he's alive, as the chicken that I'm eating... The chicken sprouted feathers and crowed, as the story goes... So the miracle is marked by a live chicken and rooster behind a glass wall in the cathedral.....

Tomorrow back on the Camino. It's on the cool side so perfect for walking!

Sending Camino blessings

Day 13: Santa Domingo de la Calzada

On Mike's suggestion, re: the priest in Najera that draws sellos in pelegrino's credencials, I attended the evening mass and I wasn't disappointed.

The priest asked if there were any pelegrinos attending, and there were two of us - a Swedish woman with blue highlights on her spiky hair and me. We got to ring the pilgrim's bell three times and then he drew the path by the river with fish and birds flying above and me carrying the. Canadian flag guided by the Milky Way! See pix below ,

It turned out to be a beautiful day for walking. I decided to take an alternate route to the Cistercian Abbey in Canas. It was so peaceful all along this route and the Abbey is stunning!

I arrived in Santo Domingo about 5pm and was exhausted. I have a cold which is sapping my energy - most likely a hint to take it easier!

Today is May Day, a national holiday - everyone was out walking in the evening or sitting in bars watching the soccer game!

Sending Camino blessings

Day 12: Najerra

Oh, I did NOT want to get outa bed today! I could hear the rain pouring down and even the thought of wearing my turquoise poncho couldn't get me going ;-)

Indecision is sometimes good since by the time I got myself together, the rain had stopped thankfully and out I went for a 18k walk to Najera.

I had a chance to see the inside of the cathedral on Navrette before I left - the wall behind the altar is all gold! It evoked all sorts of feelings at how ostentatious it was and I wondered the story behind it. It was 8pm when I went in and sat listening to a group of 'older' women reciting prayers.

The pilgrim's menu was the best I've had so far which I shared with Kate from London UK. A real veggie soup; then wee red peppers stuffed with cod in a delicate squid ink sauce and for desert torta Santiago soaked in brandy with pineapple
All for 12E!

Other local specialties, are cardo, thistle that looks like celery and is bland. Also, abbas, the look like Lima beans ..

Tomorrow is May 1 - a holiday here.

Sending Camino blessings!

Day 11: Navrette

It was threatening rain today but turned out to be a perfect walking day - a 22K one. The ACES have gone their own way at their own paces. Feels like another stage for me. I quite enjoyed walking in a more relaxed manner admiring the landscape, listening to birds, watching people.

Since Liam was leaving later today, I continued our poppy tradition welcoming him in turn. He 'caught me up' in Logrono where we had a cup of tea. He had some shopping to do so I continued through the undulating countryside.

Just before Logrono, I stopped to get a 'sells', a stamp from an older woman whose family has been welcoming pilgrims for generations.

I'm now in Navrette, another medieval hilltop town. I waved Liam goodbye as he turned the afterburners on planning another 20k... I was happy to stop, shower and am now resting! Can't believe I've walked about 150k so far... Time for a rest day soon.

I'm attaching a pix from last night's farewell dinner in addition to some others.

Sending Camino blessings

Day 9: Viana

It was an 18K walk today, a slow one for me, which provided plenty of contemplative time since I was walking solo. It's Sunday so the Church bells echoed across the landscape. We're now in Rioja wine country. The old gnarly vines are just beginning to leaf and the olive trees are everywhere planted in precise patterns on the hillsides.

In the spirit of Camino encouragement, Liam left a poppy on markers to cheer me on. I can't tell you how much they meant to me. This was the first day that we did not walk together and tomorrow we will go off on our separate ways! I've really fortunate to have such wonderful companionship to begin the Camino.

We're in Viana, a beautiful medieval town with a beautiful cathedral and ruins. I hope to get in to see the inside of the cathedral.! It's certainly beautiful from the outside. Cesar Borgia is buried here.

It's a chilly day; I'm glad to have layers! And, I have my first blister on a toe ...

Sending Camino blessings!