Monday, May 6, 2013

Day 18: Burgos - 2

A lovely lazy day, looking at people, the locals, the pelegrinos, the kids ... The little things delighted me - a wonderful fountain that randomly did its water dance. If I were wealthy and influential, I would insist that Toronto get more fountains to delight; to cool; to muffle traffic noise... I would create more open spaces with cafes so people could gather and talk to each other.... I'm also impressed that there is no take out coffee - you go to the bar/cafe again another opportunity to meet others. And, less trash...

Here are a few photos from the city of the infamous 'El Cid' who is buried in the city's grand cathedral.

I'm off to the Meseta, where there's little wifi access... See you in a few days! Camino blessings!













Sunday, May 5, 2013

Day 17: Burgos

Another spectacular day! 25.6k from San Juan de Ortega.... There were so many sweet moments. In Ages, drinking wonderfully rich green tea, listening to great jazz in a little cafe/tienda (store) that could rival any big city establishment BUT with much more character. The proprietor was so kind and helpful.

I didn't know that in Atapuerca, the earliest human remains ever discovered in Europe were found dating back 900,000 years ago... The visitor centre was 3k off the path... I decided to pass. I may visit the Museum of Human Evolution tomorrow.

And who was the family I passed with small horses carrying their stuff?

Most of the way was on quiet back roads or paths, and I was not looking forward to the walk into Burgos because it had been described as unpleasant, on the side of the highway. There was an alternate route suggested, unmarked... 7.6K along a river. It turned out to be just beautiful - parkland all the way to the Burgos cathedral!

Along the way, a woman came up to me asking if I was going to Santiago. Turns out Rosali is from there and asked me to say a prayer of thanks for her in Santiago since her prayers were answered 42 years ago when she met her husband and she's been grateful ever since .... Another teary Camino moment.

Burgos is beautiful! Everyone was out tonight in their Sunday best walking around, sitting in cafes.

Sending Camino blessings !



























Velykden' - Ukrainian Easter

I started out early from San Juan de Ortega walking through the morning mists listening to the choir of birds; cow bells ; church bells and the profound silence ... And came across a wee labyrinth which I walked giving thanks to all the riches of my life ....





Day 16; San Juan de Ortega

Some days are just easier than others and today was a good one! It turned out to be a glorious sunny warm one which it made it easier to walk the 24K to San Juan de Ortega.

I was concerned since the map showed some serious hills but they turned out not to be as challenging as expected, thankfully.

The path took me through a forested area with incredible vistas of the snow capped Sierras. Somewhere along the way I reached the highest point of the Camino but I was unaware of doing so. The highlight was seeing a white tailed deer scurrying back into the forest.

San Juan de Ortega is a tiny village that caters to the pelegrinos. It consists of a scattering of houses around a gorgeous plaza, the feature of which is the beautifully restored church. Once again , there was a blessing of the pilgrims - so touching and supportive no matter what your beliefs are.

Tomorrow I hope to get to Burgos, where I'll spend two nights.

Sending Camino blessings











Friday, May 3, 2013

Day 15: Belorado

The excitement today was seeing storks at the beginning of the day sitting on their palatial nests and then the end of the day in the bell tower of a church here in Belorado. What magnificence! I was always told that if a stork builds a best on your home, you are blessed, so I extended that to blessings on seeing them!

I walked through Granon today and really felt a very special energy there! The albergue there is connected to a lovely church.... I would have stayed but wanted to walk a bit more! Someone said it was featured in the movie The Way. Also passed an albergue in Villorea de la Rioja that is supported by Paulo Coelho.

It was a bit of an up and down day for me today, one moment questioning why I'm doing this, the next moment forgetting the question because of some breath-taking vista.... Ah, the inner journey.,,

No pix today 'cause the wifi is not letting me do so - I'll try to add them tomorrow!

There are mountains on the way tomorrow so poppies and pretty pink heather will be called upon..,

Sending Camino blessings!














Thursday, May 2, 2013

Day 14: Santo Domingo da la Calzada - 2

It was a rest day for me today, nursing a cold, reading, napping. I had a chance to pause and reflect on the past two weeks, my travels inner and outer. I was particularly moved by my walk to the Cistercian Abbey in Canas, a suggested alternative route from the main Camino path.

The Abbey was stunning but the profound stillness of the land is still very much with me along with the very slow-changing stunning vistas with each step!

This morning I was awakened at 5am by what sounded like water pipes banging
Turned out to be the drummer who marks Santo Domingo's efforts to keep pilgrims safe on the Camino path by drumming. But at 5am!!! He was back tonight at 7pm.
See pix below.

And, there is a chicken and rooster in the cathedral (or chooks as my Aussie friends would say). Couldn't find them last night but was helped by the rooster crowing this afternoon. See pix below.

The story is that Santo Domingo brought a man hanged under false charges back to life. When the judge heard, he said in disbelief, it's as likely he's alive, as the chicken that I'm eating... The chicken sprouted feathers and crowed, as the story goes... So the miracle is marked by a live chicken and rooster behind a glass wall in the cathedral.....

Tomorrow back on the Camino. It's on the cool side so perfect for walking!

Sending Camino blessings










Wednesday, May 1, 2013

Day 13: Santa Domingo de la Calzada

On Mike's suggestion, re: the priest in Najera that draws sellos in pelegrino's credencials, I attended the evening mass and I wasn't disappointed.

The priest asked if there were any pelegrinos attending, and there were two of us - a Swedish woman with blue highlights on her spiky hair and me. We got to ring the pilgrim's bell three times and then he drew the path by the river with fish and birds flying above and me carrying the. Canadian flag guided by the Milky Way! See pix below ,

It turned out to be a beautiful day for walking. I decided to take an alternate route to the Cistercian Abbey in Canas. It was so peaceful all along this route and the Abbey is stunning!

I arrived in Santo Domingo about 5pm and was exhausted. I have a cold which is sapping my energy - most likely a hint to take it easier!

Today is May Day, a national holiday - everyone was out walking in the evening or sitting in bars watching the soccer game!

Sending Camino blessings