Day 22: Moratinos

I wish you were here watching the sun dance over the vibrant green fields as the day comes to a close... It's so quiet in this wee village, Moratinos.

Had dinner in a restaurant that's tucked into a hill - it was esplendido. Leeks in a vinaigrette; delicate fish skewers and a lovely cinnamon pudding. Started out sitting by myself, but was later joined by the warm-hearted Carmen and the two Manuels from Galicia. It's really amazing how much is communicated not knowing each others' languages.

It was a long walk again, 30K on the straight'n narrow path with little shade on the Meseta. I can't imagine what it would be like later in the summer. The sun was out today and it was pretty warm.

Got another blister today!

Sending Camino blessings!

Day 21: Carrion

Slow day to start 'cause it was raining! The hospitality shown by the owners of the Casa Rural was so warm and caring! When I told them my leg muscles were sore, she insisted I have sugar and warm water - no Gaterade here!

The walk began in the light rain taking an alternative route by the canal. The the rain became harder and the mud started sticking to the bottom of my boots... In spite of the discomfort, I was still thrilled to be out on the rain in Spain ..... (couldn't resist)

We finally found an open bar full of pelegrinos in a little village just before Carrion, Vollalcazar - the elderly New Yorkers who are doing the Camino one week at a time and the wonderful French priest, 83, who is walking with his cousin from Vancouver, the talkative former civil servant in Mulroney's PMO. The town has a splendid church, a renowned restaurant in a beautifully converted old building. Some towns just immediately have an aesthetic feel that makes you want to linger!

Sending Camino blessings!

Day 20: Fromista

Church bells serenaded me all night last night and it was a beautiful thing! I could have laid about for a while longer but had places to go....

Passed the magnificent ruins of St Anton where bread was once left for pilgrims - modern day pelegrinos now leave written prayers and hopes there now.

Castojeriz is a quiet gem of a town, and I wondered if I should stay ... The climb out out of town was challenging but not as bad as I thought it might be! After all, I've crossed the Pyrenees!

Back to the flatness of the Meseta! At a rest stop, I met a delightful Aussie, Peter, who happens to dance the 5R's and will be dancing with Jonnie in Switzerland and Belgium after the Camino. How the kilometres fly when there's good conversation!

Sending blessings to Jen from Oregon who ran after us about a half K to alert us we had taken the wrong turn!

At the end of the day, heading into Fromista, we walked along a canal, serenaded by frogs and a bird that seemed to mimics the frogs. The sky cleared, the sun came out, and the decision to walk the extra 6k seemed just right!

Sending Camino Blessings'

Day 19: Hontanas

I was so glad to be walking again today and have landed in Hontanas, yet another pretty little village nestled in a valley on the Meseta, the endless flatland, with few distractions, that many find difficult. It was a 30k walk today!

And, indeed, parts of the path today reminded me of the flat boring stretches of the 401- when I felt fatigued; but when I felt energized, it was wonderful to listen to cadence of my body, finding a repetitive rhythm that calmed the busy-ness of the mind, emptying to hear the rustling grasses, the howling wind and the songs of the birds!

In Rabe de Calzados, I had tea with Tomaso, from Rome, who had just sprained his ankle, and was needing to rest ( see pix below - those Romans always look so put together ). Talked to Aussies; Robert from Edinburgh; spoke Ukrainian with a woman from Bucharest; a Dutch guy who markets Microsoft in Poland and Ukraine; a Canadian from Southampton... the world on the Camino!

So glad I've landed - it's pouring! Sending Camino blessings'

Day 18: Burgos - 2

A lovely lazy day, looking at people, the locals, the pelegrinos, the kids ... The little things delighted me - a wonderful fountain that randomly did its water dance. If I were wealthy and influential, I would insist that Toronto get more fountains to delight; to cool; to muffle traffic noise... I would create more open spaces with cafes so people could gather and talk to each other.... I'm also impressed that there is no take out coffee - you go to the bar/cafe again another opportunity to meet others. And, less trash...

Here are a few photos from the city of the infamous 'El Cid' who is buried in the city's grand cathedral.

I'm off to the Meseta, where there's little wifi access... See you in a few days! Camino blessings!

Day 17: Burgos

Another spectacular day! 25.6k from San Juan de Ortega.... There were so many sweet moments. In Ages, drinking wonderfully rich green tea, listening to great jazz in a little cafe/tienda (store) that could rival any big city establishment BUT with much more character. The proprietor was so kind and helpful.

I didn't know that in Atapuerca, the earliest human remains ever discovered in Europe were found dating back 900,000 years ago... The visitor centre was 3k off the path... I decided to pass. I may visit the Museum of Human Evolution tomorrow.

And who was the family I passed with small horses carrying their stuff?

Most of the way was on quiet back roads or paths, and I was not looking forward to the walk into Burgos because it had been described as unpleasant, on the side of the highway. There was an alternate route suggested, unmarked... 7.6K along a river. It turned out to be just beautiful - parkland all the way to the Burgos cathedral!

Along the way, a woman came up to me asking if I was going to Santiago. Turns out Rosali is from there and asked me to say a prayer of thanks for her in Santiago since her prayers were answered 42 years ago when she met her husband and she's been grateful ever since .... Another teary Camino moment.

Burgos is beautiful! Everyone was out tonight in their Sunday best walking around, sitting in cafes.

Sending Camino blessings !

Velykden' - Ukrainian Easter

I started out early from San Juan de Ortega walking through the morning mists listening to the choir of birds; cow bells ; church bells and the profound silence ... And came across a wee labyrinth which I walked giving thanks to all the riches of my life ....