Day 26: Leon

Was heading to the museum of contemporary art with Cate and Peter, but ended up at the medical clinic, which just happened to be across from the museum, to tend to Peter's infected toe! Service was amazing - quick, effective and a prescription for antibiotics was just what was needed!

It was a lazy day, hanging in cafes and bars when the rains came, on and off during the afternoon. I got my bags cut too...

The Leon cathedral is most beautiful Iglesia that I have seen so far! Not overwhelming in its size, graciously proportionate and the stained glass is spectacular! It was built to bring in the light and does so in a grand wayI I was moved to tears!

Back on the Meseta again tomorrow. I'm eager to move once again!

Sending Camino blessings!

Day 25: Mansilla de las Mulas - LEON

The first part of the day, it was just 'me and my shadow' walking 25k virtually alone except for two cyclists along the old Roman road, long and narrow stretching for miles in the distance and the landscape flat with little variation. There were no villages, nothing to distract except for the occasional train going by in the distance . At times it became hallucenogenic, green below, blue above - one step after another, the clicking of my poles connecting to the earth, the occasional bird calling me back. I landed in a deep inner space that's still with me!

Arrived in Manzilla de las Mulas and took the bus into Leon avoiding the 'wearisome, dangerous slog' to quote the guidebook into this gorgeous city! There's a river walk that's stunning, the chestnuts, wisteria are in bloom, the fragrance soothes the sore muscles. So sensual!

I decided to splurge and stay in the magnificent parador of San Marco, formerly the headquarters of the Military Order of St James from the 16th century. They have special rates for pelegrinos!

And the city is full of them, quite recognizable in sensible sandals and zip off pants. It's like a little mobile village into itself. Had dinner away from the touristy area, outside of course, watching families play with their children. Within minutes, I was joined by friends, then stopped to chat with others.

The evening ended in the parador dining room with Aussie Cate and Peter sharing Camino stories. Peter is looking rather Hemingway -ish, letting his beard appear.

It's more than halfway now, and there seems to be a slight change in focus... More contemplative, more inner..

Sending Camino blessings! and pics when the wifi lets me...

Day 24: Calzadilla de Los Hermanos

Calzadilla de Los Hermanos is a sleepy, dusty little village bathed with the fragrance of lilacs - they are everywhere!

Got here around 2:30 after a rather flat
uninspirational walk, still on the Meseta. There were hardly any pelegrinos on the alternate route - I don't understand why anyone would choose to walk by a highway instead of quiet countryside.

There was a Camino angel moment for me first thing walking as Martina from the Hostal where I was staying last night, pulled up in her car waving my little booklet with all passwords, contact numbers and other important info! I was so grateful she made the effort to find me!

Tonight's pastime was attending a prayers recited to the Virgin Mary by about 30 women... Santa Maria, Madre de Dios .. Their repetitive chanting put me into a very deep restful place. Then a conversation with the beautiful 75 year old hospitalera from Paris, sharing our fascination with storks - she kept correcting my grammar - I didn't mind ! And the best was watching frogs frolick in the pond as the shepherd guided the sheep home..

Sending Camino blessings!

Day 23: Moratinos - 2

Moratinos is absolutely enchanting! I just couldn't leave this morning. It consists of two streets and a scattering of houses, an Iglesia, a Hostal and an albergue. And such deep silence.

I learned about the Peaceable Kingdom, a b'n b run by an American expat Rebbeka and her British husband, Paddy here in Moratinos. Check out her blog 'big fun in a tiny pueblo'. I visited them this morning, their many dogs and Bob, the canary- for a tea and a chat. They have built a labyrinth at the grove of trees by the rio Templar just as you are coming into Moratinos. Rebekkah is writing a series of guidebooks for some of the less known Camino paths in Spain . What a life!

Apparently, the Camino is on the 34th parallel, known for its mysticism and healing qualities.

Rebecca suggested that I sample the local specialty - pichon escabeche - at the restaurant. I did and became the evening entertainment for the locals as the wee stewed pigeon was served. A heart warming moment as everyone commented and watched my reaction - got to admit it was quite tasty once I got over the idea of eating pigeon. See pix of chef and photographer below!

This was one of the sweetest days on the Camino!

Sending Camino blessings!

Day 22: Moratinos

I wish you were here watching the sun dance over the vibrant green fields as the day comes to a close... It's so quiet in this wee village, Moratinos.

Had dinner in a restaurant that's tucked into a hill - it was esplendido. Leeks in a vinaigrette; delicate fish skewers and a lovely cinnamon pudding. Started out sitting by myself, but was later joined by the warm-hearted Carmen and the two Manuels from Galicia. It's really amazing how much is communicated not knowing each others' languages.

It was a long walk again, 30K on the straight'n narrow path with little shade on the Meseta. I can't imagine what it would be like later in the summer. The sun was out today and it was pretty warm.

Got another blister today!

Sending Camino blessings!

Day 21: Carrion

Slow day to start 'cause it was raining! The hospitality shown by the owners of the Casa Rural was so warm and caring! When I told them my leg muscles were sore, she insisted I have sugar and warm water - no Gaterade here!

The walk began in the light rain taking an alternative route by the canal. The the rain became harder and the mud started sticking to the bottom of my boots... In spite of the discomfort, I was still thrilled to be out on the rain in Spain ..... (couldn't resist)

We finally found an open bar full of pelegrinos in a little village just before Carrion, Vollalcazar - the elderly New Yorkers who are doing the Camino one week at a time and the wonderful French priest, 83, who is walking with his cousin from Vancouver, the talkative former civil servant in Mulroney's PMO. The town has a splendid church, a renowned restaurant in a beautifully converted old building. Some towns just immediately have an aesthetic feel that makes you want to linger!

Sending Camino blessings!

Day 20: Fromista

Church bells serenaded me all night last night and it was a beautiful thing! I could have laid about for a while longer but had places to go....

Passed the magnificent ruins of St Anton where bread was once left for pilgrims - modern day pelegrinos now leave written prayers and hopes there now.

Castojeriz is a quiet gem of a town, and I wondered if I should stay ... The climb out out of town was challenging but not as bad as I thought it might be! After all, I've crossed the Pyrenees!

Back to the flatness of the Meseta! At a rest stop, I met a delightful Aussie, Peter, who happens to dance the 5R's and will be dancing with Jonnie in Switzerland and Belgium after the Camino. How the kilometres fly when there's good conversation!

Sending blessings to Jen from Oregon who ran after us about a half K to alert us we had taken the wrong turn!

At the end of the day, heading into Fromista, we walked along a canal, serenaded by frogs and a bird that seemed to mimics the frogs. The sky cleared, the sun came out, and the decision to walk the extra 6k seemed just right!

Sending Camino Blessings'