The first part of the day, it was just 'me and my shadow' walking 25k virtually alone except for two cyclists along the old Roman road, long and narrow stretching for miles in the distance and the landscape flat with little variation. There were no villages, nothing to distract except for the occasional train going by in the distance . At times it became hallucenogenic, green below, blue above - one step after another, the clicking of my poles connecting to the earth, the occasional bird calling me back. I landed in a deep inner space that's still with me!
Arrived in Manzilla de las Mulas and took the bus into Leon avoiding the 'wearisome, dangerous slog' to quote the guidebook into this gorgeous city! There's a river walk that's stunning, the chestnuts, wisteria are in bloom, the fragrance soothes the sore muscles. So sensual!
I decided to splurge and stay in the magnificent parador of San Marco, formerly the headquarters of the Military Order of St James from the 16th century. They have special rates for pelegrinos!
And the city is full of them, quite recognizable in sensible sandals and zip off pants. It's like a little mobile village into itself. Had dinner away from the touristy area, outside of course, watching families play with their children. Within minutes, I was joined by friends, then stopped to chat with others.
The evening ended in the parador dining room with Aussie Cate and Peter sharing Camino stories. Peter is looking rather Hemingway -ish, letting his beard appear.
It's more than halfway now, and there seems to be a slight change in focus... More contemplative, more inner..
Sending Camino blessings! and pics when the wifi lets me...








You did ~480km! WOW!
ReplyDeleteParadors, what next?
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